On the high bank of the Volga, not far from the Resurrection Monastery, there is a beautiful old temple with a difficult fate. It was built by the wealthy merchant Chepolosov in memory of his deceased son. In the 1930s, it was planned to build a hydroelectric power station in Uglich, the old church was to be dismantled, but the building had such an architectural and historical value that the power plant was built upstream of the river.
Temple history
Several centuries ago, in the west of the Uglich settlement, there were several wooden temples. During the Time of Troubles they were all burned and plundered. In 1689-1690, a wealthy merchant Nikifor Grigorievich Chepolosov built a new stone church on the site of burnt churches in memory of his deceased son.
The Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist from a bird's eye view
The trouble came to the merchant family unexpectedly. One summer day in 1666, the Chepolosovs' six-year-old son disappeared. Almost a month later, the shepherds found a child with a knife in his head in a moss swamp. The body was lifted, washed, but the knife could not be pulled out of the head of the murdered boy. When Fyodor Rudak approached him, the weapon of the crime fell out by itself.
What happened? Little Ivan was stolen by the Chepolosovs' clerk, who lived in the village of Jerusalem, near Uglich. He lured the child to him, tied him up and began to seek that he renounced his father, recognizing his relationship. The boy withstood all the bullying and torture, but did not betray his family. After that, the enraged Roodak killed the child. The reason why the bailiff went to the terrible atrocity remained unknown.
View of the facade of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
A tragic story stirred up Uglich. There were simply no people who would not sympathize with Vanya's parents. At first they wanted to execute the clerk, but the boy's mother had a dream in which he begged to leave Rudak's life. The culprit was not touched, and later he died of illness.
In the 1960s, archaeologists discovered in the northern aisle of the church a small burial in a niche - arkasolia. This was the grave of little Ivan Chepolosov.
View of the bell tower of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
Architectural features
The graceful church belongs to the most beautiful cathedrals and temples of Uglich. The five-domed pillarless church has three side-chapels, a gate bell tower and a refectory. The slender building on the basement is distinguished by ideal proportions and special airiness.
The neighboring monastery resembles an old fortress half-grown into the ground, and the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist seems to be flying over the surface of the earth. Whichever side we approach the church, it evokes delight and admiration. When the sun's rays illuminate the domes, the building resembles a fairytale palace. All this speaks of the outstanding taste of the customer and the skill of the Uglich builders.
View of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist from the Volga
The main decoration of the temple is the ancient tiles, which shine like precious stones on the delicate golden walls. The decoration of the bell tower and the porch is especially beautiful. The multicolored tiles and the luxurious "ledge" porch impressed the famous artist Nicholas Roerich, so in 1904 he depicted them in his paintings.
One of the tiles on the wall of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
Useful information for tourists
Many tourists include the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist in the routes of the "Golden Ring" of Russia. The patterned facade is perfectly visible from the pleasure and cruise ships that run along the Volga. The elegant porch and the hipped-roof bell tower decorated with "baroque" arches and graceful stucco work look especially beautiful.
The pearl of Uglich and one of the iconic monuments of the city. This is a functioning temple, in which three chapels are consecrated - in honor of the Savior Image Not Made by Hands, Simeon the Stylite and the Nativity of John the Baptist. Divine services are rarely held, because of the restoration, the building is almost always closed, so you can only admire the church from the outside (2021).
How to get there
View of the Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist from the side of the Resurrection Monastery
The ancient temple stands at the end of Spasskaya Street, next to Resurrection monastery... The church is located 0.6 km from Uglich Kremlin, within walking distance from the city bus station. The closest public transport stop to the temple is Narimanov Street.
Information sources
- Wikipedia, Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist (Uglich)
- Sobors.ru, Uglich. Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist
- Tourist Information Center "Uglich", Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist "on the Volga"
- "Rublev", Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist in Uglich
- Temples of Russia, Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist on the Volga
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